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Pumpkin

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Flat Tire
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Reply with quote  #31 
It could also be a bad ground. Everyone chases power and they always forget to check out there grounds.
trkhlic

Damn Local
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Reply with quote  #32 
We did the test light thing like you were saying Bruce and it wasn't on any of the normal fuse circuits. On the ford starter solenoid for the 2.9L V6 it is the green wire that turns into black with orange stripe and the yellow wire which turns into multiple blues. The black with orange stripe seems to be the most significant short. The yellow wire just barely lights the led on the test light.

Benji, why would a bad ground drain the battery with everything hooked up but nothing on?
Bruce

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Reply with quote  #33 
If I remember right the black/orange stripe wire feeds the fuse block. What year is it? I'll check the wiring diagram tomorrow. I can't access it from home anymore.
Pumpkin

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Flat Tire
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Reply with quote  #34 
I'm not sure how to explain it, but I learned the hard way on a Hummv. @ sets of batteries and 1 alt. I final found the problem. It was a bad ground going through the frame. Truck would start everyday if you tried it. Let it set 2 days then try it and there was nothing. Cleaned the dirty ground and all was fine. I have since had that happen 2 other times. Once on a HET and the other was on my old Bronco.
trkhlic

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Reply with quote  #35 
Bruce, its an 88. And yes, I am pretty sure the black with orange stripe goes to the fuse block, but like I said, I pulled ALL the fuses and the test light never went out. Thanks for checking the wiring diagram, maybe yours is a bit better and can give more information than mine.

Benji, I will have to look into this ground issue.
jdabbs

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Reply with quote  #36 

lots of time here, iv'e seen dome light switches bad/shorted or on fords-headlight switches.  which Head lamps are not on a fuse.  Using the test light is easiest way to help find the prob.  If anything whatsoever is on, the test light will glow.   have you unpluged your stereo/cb?


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jdabbs

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Reply with quote  #37 
thought of some other stuff:

winch and or solenoids.

on ford I have seen the starter solenoid shorted inside

do you have any marker lamps that don't work?



just unplug anything you can one at a time till the test light goes out.  If your stereo has memory(anything 1985+ does)  it will light the test light but its really dim.  you need a amp meter to test with @the batt.  1-2amps is ok, anything more will drain the batt in a day or so.   hope this helps

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trkhlic

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Reply with quote  #38 
Went back and checked the fuses again, first time I had a buddy looking at the test light, this time I did it myself so I could be absolutely sure the light was on or off with each fuse pull, found out the radio was shorting out somehow so I just pulled it, i don't listen to the radio offroad anyway, it was from back when the truck was my DD. So that is taken care of but the alternator wasn't charging right. Discovered the voltage regulator isn't working. I have another stock alternator from the old engine that I am going to throw in but since I am adding a second winch to the truck soon I am thinking about a high output version. Somewhere between 140 and 200 A should do. The stock alternator is good for 75 A i believe. Anyone have a manufacturer recommendation. I have been checking out Powermaster and MrAlternator. Don't really want to spend too much over $200. I am not in a hurry on this, just looking toward the future.
Pumpkin

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Flat Tire
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Reply with quote  #39 
If it was me I would add another battery and leave the stock alt. The extra Battery will do more good per cost then a high output alt. IMO.
clayne

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Reply with quote  #40 

I know one if I can find there info.


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jdabbs

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Door Killer
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Reply with quote  #41 

I think the dual batteries would work out the best, then the alt doesn't have such a hard time chargin cause it takes alot to drain both batterys.  One good strong batt. would prolly be enough.  like 1000ca/800cca


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Pumpkin

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Flat Tire
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Reply with quote  #42 

But 2 or 3 1000cca would be better. haha

trkhlic

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Reply with quote  #43 
Ok, I'm convinced on the dual battery idea. Once my current battery kicks the bucket I am going to go with two of these. They are supposed to be private label Odyssey batteries from what I read on Pirate. Would it make more sense to just relocate both batteries to inside the cab or leave one battery in the engine compartment and one battery in the cab?
Pumpkin

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Flat Tire
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Reply with quote  #44 
You could put both on the bed, or one in one place and the other in a different location. Just remember to use 1ga or 0ga to connect them. I run my winch, lights and fan off of one battery and everything else from the other battery. One battery is grounded to the frame and the other to the engine. pos to pos. Mine is 00ga wire for battery to battery and for both grounds.I don't know what everyone else is doing but this has worked for me on 2 rigs. and no I do not run one of the fancy things the lets the alt charge one battery at a time.
jdabbs

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Door Killer
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Reply with quote  #45 

I wouldn't put batteries in the cab at all, maybe one in the bed and one under the hood or both in the bed. 


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